Azure Offers A Tasty Touch Of The Mediterranean
Justin Hooper serves Azure patrons.
News photo: John L. White
Azure offers a tasty touch of the Mediterranean
By MATT ARCURE
News Restaurant Reviewer
The warm Mediterranean colors and sunny atmosphere of Azure, a new restaurant near Briarwood, are such a pleasant change from the gray cold days of late that I liked it even before I tried the menu. I like it even more now.
Plenty of care has been taken in making over The Mandarin restaurant, which used to fill Azure’s space. Fabrics are colorful, woodwork is of high quality, booths are comfortable. Interesting touches are everywhere, including the finish of tabletops, where squares of silver or gold “float” in the wood. Look into the kitchen and see a large copper oven and grills where pita breads are warmed and assorted kebobs broil.
The decor and atmosphere are welcoming, but it’s the service and the food that make Azure something really special. The service is attentive, not only from the host but also the waitstaff. They’re eager to introduce Mediterranean specialties to those who are unfamiliar with the range of dishes prepared by head chef Mohammed Jamil. Many of the recipes come from co-owner Amal Sabbagh's Lebanese grandmother.
A meal can be made from just the appetizers. Among the best are the calamari frites served with a garlicky sour cream sauce. “Garlic is good for you,” Amal counsels, as she talks to diners at tables throughout the main room. I think properly-prepared calamari bodes well for a restaurant. My theory holds true here. The little rounds of octopus are gently fried and are not over-breaded or greasy. What can taste like fried rubber bands are tender circles instead.
Babaganooge (the spelling is Azure’s), char-grilled eggplant pureed with tahini, garlic and lemon juice is light and more refreshing than many versions I’ve tasted. Scooped in pieces of warm pita, this spread is lemony - a flavor that repeats itself in many of Azure’s dishes, including little bowls of small green olives served as appetizers. Kibbee footballs are also a hit. These are sauteed lamb, onions and pine nuts stuffed in cracked wheat shells, fried lightly in vegetable oil. These Rose Bowl reminders come with a parsley-tahini sauce that is so good I wanted to put it on everything.
Other good appetizers include Felafell (again, the spelling is Azure’s), mini veggie burgers made of ground chick-peas, onion, parsley, garlic, fried and served with a tahini and cucumber sauce. Of the many places in town that serve falafel, I’d put Azure’s at the top of the “A” list.
Don’t shy away from this strange-sounding appetizer: Kibbee Nayee is uncooked lamb ground and mixed with herbs, including cumin and nutmeg, and cracked wheat and served with pita bread. It’s very good. A great way to sample the appetizers is to have them as your meal. Order the Azure Mazatray and you get a platter with servings of hummus, felafell, kibbee nayee, babaganooge, tabboolee, kibbee footballs, warak de wally (stuffed grape leaves), a variety of dips and pickled vegetables. It provides a great sampling that two can share and not go away hungry.
As for the entrees, you can do this same sort of sampling. In fact, you’re encouraged to do this with the grilled items. There are skewers of shrimp, lamb, veggies, chicken, swordfish or beef, most marinated in Mediterranean oil-herb mixtures. A combination plate lets you select any three of these. I also recommend is the Shish Tavuk Kebob. Marinated breast of chicken is mixed with lemon juice, olive oil, herbs and spices, broiled on skewers and then served with an herbed pita and garlic aioli sauce.
Of the house specialties there are some “must try” choices. The Artichaud Nazarene is tender artichoke hearts filled with a gently-seasoned lamb, onion and pine nut saute over basmati rice pilaf. Light yet filling, this is a four-star entree. The Shawarma and Mediterranean Fajita are apparently the most popular entrees on the menu, but it’s hard to top the artichoke hearts. Shawarma is gyro-style chicken or lamb, broiled over an open flame and served with hummus, potatoes and pickled turnips.
Lamb is clearly the meat of choice at Azure’s, but seafood doesn’t take a back seat. Of particular note is the salmon fillet, oven-baked and topped with a tomato basil, caper and garlic sauce.
Desserts? Try those made on the premises. These include baklavas and a rosewater rice pudding. The baklava gets high marks. The pudding is clearly made from scratch and not the instant pudding and cooked rice combination that’s promoted at many area Greek and Mediterranean restaurants. The rosewater taste, a bit soapy to my tastebuds, is distracting to me, however.
Azure is a pleasant addition to Ann Arbor’s eclectic restaurant scene. It has virtually everything going for it. A grand opening is scheduled for mid-January.
RESTAURANT
REVIEW
Azure
625 Hilton Blvd. at State Street
647-9500
Food 8 out of 10
Service 8.5 out of 10
Atmosphere 8.5 out of 10
Hours: Monday-Thursday, Sunday 10 a.m.-10 p.m.; Friday-Saturday 10 a.m.-midnight
Liquor: full bar.
Plastic: all major credit cards.
Prices: moderate, entrees from $8.75-$19.95.
Wheelchair access: interior very accessible: negotiating curb and entryway may require assistance.