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Foreign Correspondence

Foreign Correspondence image
Parent Issue
Day
20
Month
December
Year
1872
Copyright
Public Domain
OCR Text

BOTZEN, SOUTH ÏYROL, AtTSTBIA, ) Oetober 9, 1873. My Deab PojíD: Thore are throughout the Tyrol very fow plaoe3 whore the ti aveier may not find scènes of beauty and of grandeur to delight the eyt, and stnmgo ooatumes and oustoma to gratify the curiusity. Ono cunnot wfll oo everythiug, ven if he would, but wc luvo in general sought to seo evetything thtit was doairablo in the yicinity of our tomporiiry locations. The Zilj lcrthul is one of the valloys in whiuh tLo i Tyrolean habita of lifo, lovo of iuubic, j and nat.ioaal pride, are said to bo boat proserved, aud with a viow to get glimp.w into this happy Tule and at the samo timo aooompiUh other sigataeoing oqually doairuble, we iinproved a tuw d:ij-8 not othorwiso uppropriatcd during our 9tuy at Inusbruofe. Tuking the ourly truin east, wo reaohed Junbuoh at 9 A. il., and at once took thu post road bauk obout two miles to the of.stlo oi' Frazbnrg, which stands upon thü Tt-ry brow of a porpoudicular cliff, óüO feet above the valley. Wo aoon ronchud tho winding path that by an oasy gnido ascouda tho bauk through a lorost oí nativo boech - a troe not vory comiuon so fur as wo have obsorved. Xcariug tho larel oí tho ooatle, o troja tho carriage way vihiüh (nttrs ut a lowor portal. Bofore entoring tho arohed gateway, a stuall opon space of uu aore, with fruit trees, is crosst J, auil thtu we pass henoath the coat of tirina diroctly iuto tho optn oourt. - Thj eustlo hu-j uo outor wall, but is built around an opea interior oourt ot' aLiout 200 t'ufct square, throe stories in hiut exolttáve of tuwurs.aud with bulCuuics oa tho Bast aud south opouingiuto th ocurt iti whola loiigth. Au attouditut uooii oppoared with a formidabla banca of küys, oud wo asoendod a winding stairwuy to tho first íloor, nd bogan a Uioit intorosting tour of tho castlo,- so eituuiive, howovor, and full of curious objeots, that only tho briofest suiumai-y of ttach room caá bü attompted. The íii!,t rootn was a gallory of fainily portraits of the present proprietor, Count Eiuuuborg, who rusides muoh of tho timo at Inusbruck; tho 6econd wa9 callod the líoman roota, and contuined portraits of twolve llaman liruporors - tho coilings and furuituro in hariuony ; tho third v;is dovotod to tho fully expended goneulogi.' A liiio of tholIoiioX-jfoiVi-mii' fif ifegB nóar EEo Joor, and extended quito aiinuul thn four sidos of tho lurgo rootn. Wo did uot read uil tho namen. Bouoath tho Kno wero paintod lmge stuga, with rtml untlers bo cunningly atlixed as to givo tho wholo tho oppotuanco of the living animal. Tho fourth was tho Queon's room, with royal furnituro aud a boautifulboudoir, extonding from the covner iuto tho towor, tho walls huug with i'ull longth portraita of various royal personagos. Tho íifth was tho dinmg hall, with rich oíd furniture, tapostriea and portraits. Tho coiliugs overhead in this aud the precoding room woro especially boautiful, boing not only richly pancled, but also inlaid with woods of different colors. üth, the drinking saloon, with asphalt íloor, and vory convoniently furnished for a " good timo." 7th, the armory, voll üllod but not vory woll arranged with a largo collection of anoiont armor, coats of íuail, guns, swords, lances, &c. Aniong tho most curious objoots wo uotioed woro two light woodon ühields, covered with hido, and with a handlo of twiitod rawhido, whioh woro borne by crusaders; also an ivory saddle, curiously oarvod and letterai, whioh seomod vory anoient, but its 'aistory was unknown ; a trumput auout niño feot long, usod for reoalling thoie who in tho olden timo may havo Btrayod too f;'.r from tho castle. 8th, an Mlte-room, with tho reul heada ai gamo, killed at various timos by oocupants and in the viciuity, among whieh wo noticed two íierce-looking wild.boars, a brown bear, several wolves and numborloss deer, stag and chatnois lieads. 9th, the gueat chauiber, 0110 bod riehly furnished, beautifully c.irvcd bedsteud and autiquo furuiture. Upon tlio walls were several fino pietures - a Madonna, by Crovalli, was vory beauiful. lOth, another guost chambcr, with threo bods and suitable eonveniences, but moro plain thau tho forraer. 1 lsh, guest chamber, with two bods, plainly f urnishcd as compíirod with tho others, but quito adequiito to a comfortablo nap. Many specimens of anciont tinware and otensils adorued tho walls. 12th, tho court chambor richly furnishod and hung with portraits of royal and noble relativos of the Count, onu of which bore dato of :;(). 13th, the chapel - a spcious room of tho hüight of two stories, with fine iltar and altarpieoe, fresnoed cuiling, and with seats, &O., apparently for actual use. Wo woro tlum sliown into the unfiiiished chauibera of the third iloor, and had an opportunity to learn that the proprictorship of a lnrge castlu uud tho kcoping it up, otc, is no picayuuo affair or holiday pasfime. Ouo room wus strewn with the urnioiial eo;its of anus of souie two dozen noblo fnmiÜL'S, oach about thre fcot in diameter, boing made ready to hang in tho corridors and baleonies. Anotherhad tho disueverod pieces of a largo number of the buge oarlhenwaro BtoVM ot' this country, nnd nuiuerous piotuted beadfl of tho Germán kings, not yct roady for thcir proper places. A'aothercontnincd a medley of ilags, transparenoiee, illuminations, torohee, aud tho various parapheriialia of festival and holiday display. Still anothor had n great nuuibor of picturos, boxed and unboxed, some of thota of groat val" ue, leaning curclely agaiuat tho rough, bare wull. Among thcui woro two hirgo origináis of Salvator Rosa, and one by Ilolboin. A trap-door oponed from this ohaxuber, through which hot load and water, stones, &c, could bo thrown down upou tho heads of fous attciupting to forco tho massivo entrance fur beneath. The ■watolimau'ri cosy room in the tower would be a model for a sniall priyato library. It is upon tha naked beain of ono of those upper chambors that tho sententious linos attributod to tho KmXeror Maximillian ara writton, "I camo into tho world I knownot vrhy, I continuo to livo I know nothow, ind Ishull depart I know not whou ; I wonder I am so content-ed." Duscending now to the ground floor wo woro shown the hnnters' huil. Thls is a very large room, tastefally oecupiud by very fine carrod specimens in wood of game of various kinds, of fultyüze, and of hvuds of vurious animiil similarly carved, the Wall being decorated with iine tpeoimema of antlors of largo sizo, and of dngulur malformations of these horus. A vory aniuiuted hnnting soenois porti lyed in a largu bay window. It representa the kir.g oí' Austria aud hij buatol ou onu sido, and tho Oouut and huuter on the othor, ongaged in. huntiug the chaciois, and oai-ufuUy cliiabiug tho rooky uiouutuin sido, with guns, spy-glaaaes, &c, iu ;ho aot of being uod. Tho wholo traene 8 finoly oarved. It should bo added ihat u all tho rooms wtio hung portraits aud ioads of doer and chamois, carved fiom wood, but with roül horns attaohod; and tho ceilings wero all paneled in native vooJs, cach in a nianuer or pattern dif - uring fiom all othors, aud inoru beautiful and vanous tUau thoso oí castle Anibttkd, wliilo tho Üüors wcro all uncarpoícd aud unpolished, being inuch lesa beautiful than thoso of Ainbras. AU tiic rooms to which vo were admitted were 011 two sidos of the couvt only. TUo oastlo is uid to oonlaán :30ü Windows, ouu for cach iay tn tho ycar. Tho attondant could notinforui us as to ho oarly history oí' the castle. Its portal on ouo side of the court had tho dato oí" 1500, aud ovcr tho opposite arcli 1371. It had un origin btforj tha Eiup&rcr ZVI;vxi_ I milliau's time, at least as euriy as 12U0, and VH oiioe the propeïty of the colebiwtcd Fuggar fumily at Augsburg, ubout ho tiiuo of CUtirles V. Aa we lct't tho court we obaorved suveral gtatil pycamids of stone cauuon baila whlch huil fouud ia and about tho castlo, ut whioh in soine ancieut tiino thcy hud iirobabiy boen fiiod. liuturuing to Jenbaoh, we looked about tho placo soinewhat, finding uothing o special interest, except a small chapef oreeted by tho Couut of Eottenbur{ to ooniuieuiorato tho rairaolo represonted in a picture within the gratiug, the Listoiy of which Í3 fully reeordud in a inllii, at tho Count's oastlo, diod the pious St. Xothburga, aud by her dlroctioa the coffinod body was plaoed upon a wagon drawn by two oxen, and tho cattlo WCTe allowed to go whithor they would. Thcy went to tho right bank of tho Inn entored the river, vhen, lo ! the waters parted usunder, and tho cattlo with their procious burthen cros.sed over on dry ground, and proceeded on up tho stoep roud and up a ravine to a piuca but a few roda easterly frora. Mauraoh, about six miles in all, whoro tho good Saint was buried. There is also in tho ehaptl a representatioa of anothor earlier miraele, whieh is made a favorite subject in tho vieinity for ndoining roadside chapéis, hüisö fronts, and fountaius. Tho innocent paasant gul Nothburga is shown, togothor with hor folio w Iüboror3,star.diug in tho field, gazhig with ainazotaent at tho siokle which sho hacl throwa upward frora her haud, and was miraculously suspondod in inid air, radiating with light. As a singlo figuro, sha is generally ruprosontod standing, with tho sickle raisod in hor xight hund, and holding u ï'ound loaf of bread in the othor, while froui hor girdls hangs a buuch of k Taking seats in tho stellwagon (a conveyanco holding sis pursons iusidc, like our small-sized omnibusses), wo 01 tho Inn bridge, very near, doubtloss, to the spot sacred to tho passage of tho good Nothburga, and in a short timo through tho eourt of tho old monastery at Hothholz, whoso possossions, walled in on the loí't bank of tho river, wero onco quite extensivo. Iíuins of mi old custle on the stoep bank, and overlooking Jonbach, wore visible oa the right. As wo approached the cntranco to the Zillerthal wo had a distinct view of tho ruined castlo of llottenburg about two iuilc3 distant. The walla etill reniaiu quite cutiré, the two inassivo square towera and the w&toh tower standing ne&i appearing ncarly indestructible. A marked diffcronco between the valleys of the Inn and tho Zillür is at once observable. In the lattei" thero is less land suitablo for croppinjr, and it is devoted to raoadows and jrruzing. Thero ia no tnittelgebirge, and tho slopos, instoad of iiroscnting a wide expanse of smooth green, with but few if any troea, show oach sinall poasimt farms of a dozon acres, surrounded by a thicket' more or less wide, of forost troos. Tho vallcy itself is narrowed, and tiie liills are moro covered with snow. Passing the villages of Strass and Shilters, wo arrived at Fagon about 5 v. M., whoro wa tarried over night. Tliis is the e:ipital of (ho vnlloy, but 3 a siaall villago of live or si: hnndred inhabitints, principally peasants. Ai ■! unpretending castle is conneeted, by a covered way erosssingtho stroet, with tlie old chnroh. A pilgrimnge ohapel stands far up the hill sido. A fine walk along the top of a narrow dyke extends to tho Zillur, half a mile distant, and in tho churchynrd and vestibule aro soino ancieut inonuinents. These cover the princinal objents of local interest, aside frotn the grnnd snow-peaks visible up tho vullcy, and thopcoplo themaelves. Our walk down tho valley in tho fresh air of the next Autumn morning was f uil of exhilaration and enjoyment. Tho valley meadows were dottcd all over with the thousands of dark brown, brawnyneoked cattle, whieh, in groups of from ten to tfiirty, in charge of their young I herdsmeu, wero out for thcir carly ing. Arriving at Jenbach about 11 a. m., vu decidcd upon a contiuuanco of our walk to Achonchal, and that brightcst of of Tyrolean.lakcs.tho Aohonsee. Passing directly through tho village, which we found to bo a vcry long ono, the forgos and snieltmg worlca extending quito high up into tho depression west of tho Konwondjock, through which we wore to go. Tho road is a vory c-xcellcjnt onc, but risos at a rapid inclination nearly tho wholo distanco of six miles, to Mauraob, n villago noar the lukü. Thu lako has au i vation of llGj feet abovo tho Inn. Ouly two or throo hamlets lio upou the road, qut a brawling brook was our constant companion, and tho inountain sceiniy grand at it alwaya id. As wa drew aeur to Mauraoh wc saw tlio path leading to tho burial placo of St. IVot'uburga, but intarvening troos pievented our scoing tho chapol oreoted on the spot, and to vrhich so nmny devout pilgrima resort in dis" ohargo of their vows. We soon camo in sigiit of the boautiful luke, though thia approach freía tho southí;ist is hy 110 means tho most attraotivo, owiug to tho ïnarshy in:trgiu just thoro. Aftor reachiug the boat-houso a better view begins, and tho fino shoro from thia point north, with the road f'ollowing closu upon its margin till lost behiud tho rocky promontory, tho wooded muuataiu abruptly i-ising at tho southi leaving scaroe room for tho small fishc1' the boautiful greon valley upon tho northwest, with its small village, and from theuco north tho bold mountaiu shoros ; all thoso surroundings, ;n the midst of which lay tho shining lako of deepest bluo and green, with boats ::ore and thoro gliding over its surfaco, made a scène of such attraotivo beauty that wo sut long upon its banks. Having waudered nearly two miles along tho we leisurely strollcd back, and agaiiï took tho road down hill to Jenbach, arriving about dusk and tuking rooms at the lJost, hnviug walked during tho d;;y about '2'J uiües. Thu aejtt day wo took the 7 o'clock train for Innsbruck, not stopping at Swartz as wo had intonded. Thcro wcro silver raines worked at that placo two centuviea ugo, and tho coppor and iron niues aio still workod. Tho old church :here is covercd with (5,000 solid coppcr .ad most of the stecplcs theru at Hall are shcetod with copper, which iUe action oi' tho weather has bocome oxydized, so thttt thoy now present uhe appcarance of having been painted with green. I must now closo. Evor yours,

Article

Subjects
Old News
Michigan Argus